Tema: How to improve charging voltage on 1.9 cdti

[kaliope]

Cdti's often struggle to reach correct charging voltage.  Adding an extra positive (+) cable sorts the issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IQy_cYPVJs

[MULTIPLERO]

   

[Chicago]

 

[jcarcar]

Very well explained.
    

[Luitorr]

Hello !!!

[kaliope]

My voltage now 14.2-14.4 while driving

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M60hnLtXWwY

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/M60hnLtXWwY?fs=1&amp;amp;hl=es_ES&amp;amp;color1=0x234900&amp;amp;color2=0x4e9e00&amp;amp;border=1" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="bbc_link bbc_flash_disabled new_win">http://www.youtube.com/v/M60hnLtXWwY?fs=1&amp;amp;hl=es_ES&amp;amp;color1=0x234900&amp;amp;color2=0x4e9e00&amp;amp;border=1</a>

[joalvi]

Decir q hace varios dias me decidi a realizar lo expuesto en el video, es decir cable grueso directo del posiotivo bateria a alternador, y ademas otro cable grueso (no tenia malla) desde el negativo bateria al motor, pues si observais en el video esta persona explica lo del positivo al alternador, pero para nada habla de la malla del negativo que tiene puesto.
Yo desde q lo tengo puesto, esta cargando constantemente a 14.4 y 14.5, y aunque ponga aire acondicionado, luces, giro volante, intemitentes, apenas baja a 14.3, y sobre todo noto que el coche anda mas "entero" mas "redondo"la misma sensacion q cuando ponemos una bateria nueva o esta recien cargada y ahora esta sensacion la percibo constante cada dia.
En definitiva es totalmente aconsejable realizar esa operacion en la zafi, pues es uno de sus males endemicos.
Dos cables y 4 bornas adquirido en recambios automovil por 5 € (le quedaba un resto). Una vez colocada las bornas en los cables lo lleve a un fontanero y que soldadase las bornas con estaño, otros 5 €, total gastado 10€, y mejoria tota.
Supongo que habra cables ya con las bornas hechos para el positivo y mallas para el negativo, tambien se podria buscar en desguace, en fin ya cada uno q se las ingenie.

[Chicago]

¿Te refieres a esto? kaliope lo posteó ya el verano pasado...

Do you mean this? kaliope posted it last summer already...

http://clubzafira.com/index.php/topic,72455.msg962408.html#msg962408

[kaliope]

Yes, first I had a problem with (-) and then with the (+). The battery terminals are terrible in Opels. You need to exchange them or add extra cables like I did.

[joalvi]

Tienes toda la razon Chicago , cuando lo puso Kaliope, le hice lo del negativo, y mejoro mucho, pero al ver lo del positivo que exponia el video  decicidi probar con el cable del positivo al alternador  y ahora es totalmente correcto el funcionamiento de carga del alternador a la bateria  .

[Chicago]

Excelente...

[MULTIPLERO]

Hola a todos:

El problema lo tenemos con los alternadores de los motores 1.7..., no llevan tornillo y tuerca, sinó una clema, un enchufe con terminales "faston"..., y encima dos cables...,¿cuál es el correcto?

Un saludo 


Hello everyone:

The problem we have with the alternators of the 1.7 ... motors, do not have screw and nut, but a clema, a plug with "faston" terminals ..., and on two cables ..., which is correct?

A greeting 

[singer]

Regulator Terminal Guide
F/DF: (Field/Digital Field) Bosch alternators with internal fan
–
This is a variable output of between 0V and 11V. This connection provides the ECU  with
information about the charge rate.


FR: (Computer Monitor) For  early  Japanese  alternators
–
This  is  a  variable  output  of  between  0V  and  11V.  This  connection  provides  the  ECU  with
information about the charge rate.


F1/F2: (Field 1/Field 2) This type of connection is used on alternators without an internal regulator. The regulator is normally a separate unit or can be
built into the vehicle ECU.


C: (Computer Controlled)
This terminal is an input signal from the ECU which controls the charge rate. This signal will tell the alternator when to stop/start charging.  This  terminal  can  be  tested  by  connecting  into  ground  and  the  Voltage  Set  Point  (VSP)  should  show  a  voltage  of around 12.8V


D: (Externally Regulated)
This type of connection is used on alternators without an internal regulator. The regulator is normally a separate unit or can be built into the vehicle ECU.


F/I: (Field) US and  Korean Delco alternator has two codes for  the same type of connection (F/I). This is a variable output of between 0V and 11V. This connection provides the ECU with information about the charge rate. If the vehicle does not have a warning lamp then this connection must be connected to the ignition.


RC/SIG/RLO/PHiN: (Computer Control)
This  type  of  connection  is  connected  to  the  vehicle  ECU  which  allows  variation  of  the  voltage  set
-
point  (known  commonly  as ‘smart charge system’) Some alternators can be tested standalone others require special equipment to fully test the alternator.

RC and SIG connections are used on Ford, Volvo and Land Rover. The RLO connection is used on Toyotas.
DFM/M: (Digital Field Monitor/Monitor)
This  type  of  connection  is  connect ed  to  the  vehicle  ECU.  Every  alternator  brand  has  a  different  abbreviation  for  the  DFM connection:  FR(Field  Return)  DF(Digital  Field)  DFM(Digital  Field  Monitor)  M(Monitor)  LI(Load  Indicator)  but  all  function  in  the same way. The connection has a positive and negative measurement which works with a block pulse. When the alternator load increases the block pulse dependant on the application will become wider or smaller. The vehicle ECU then knows the load at any specific moment during the charging process.


COM: (Computer Controlled)
This type of connection is connected to the vehicle ECU using a data signal for communication. The ECU provides information about  the  required  VSP  and  the  alternator  will  respond  with  a  DFM  type  signal.  There  are  various  type  of  COM  connections
which are; • COM (Various applications), • BSS
-
1 and BSS
-
2(Mercedes, Audi, BMW, VW, Mini, Rolls Royce and Renault), • LIN
-
1(Ford/Volvo), • LIN
-
2 (9K6) (Ford/Volvo) • LIN
-
2  (19K2)  (Mercedes,  Chrysler,  Toyota,  Fiat,  Audi,  VW,  Porsche,  Citroen and Peugeot) • Infineon VDA (BMW 2012)
L/D+/IND/16/15/61/R/1: (Warning Light)

This type of connection is for the warning light circuit. This circuit must have a 12V supply on ignition which should go out when the alternator begins to charge.

S: (Battery Sense)
This type of connection is a battery sense. This connection has a direct feed from the battery. If this connection is not there, it will create a charging faul

http://www.autoelectro.co.uk/sites/default/files/media/docs/AERegulatorGuide.pdf



https://goo.gl/6EvPE9

No se si te sirva.

[MULTIPLERO]

Regulator Terminal Guide
F/DF: (Field/Digital Field) Bosch alternators with internal fan
–
This is a variable output of between 0V and 11V. This connection provides the ECU  with
information about the charge rate.


FR: (Computer Monitor) For  early  Japanese  alternators
–
This  is  a  variable  output  of  between  0V  and  11V.  This  connection  provides  the  ECU  with
information about the charge rate.


F1/F2: (Field 1/Field 2) This type of connection is used on alternators without an internal regulator. The regulator is normally a separate unit or can be
built into the vehicle ECU.


C: (Computer Controlled)
This terminal is an input signal from the ECU which controls the charge rate. This signal will tell the alternator when to stop/start charging.  This  terminal  can  be  tested  by  connecting  into  ground  and  the  Voltage  Set  Point  (VSP)  should  show  a  voltage  of around 12.8V


D: (Externally Regulated)
This type of connection is used on alternators without an internal regulator. The regulator is normally a separate unit or can be built into the vehicle ECU.


F/I: (Field) US and  Korean Delco alternator has two codes for  the same type of connection (F/I). This is a variable output of between 0V and 11V. This connection provides the ECU with information about the charge rate. If the vehicle does not have a warning lamp then this connection must be connected to the ignition.


RC/SIG/RLO/PHiN: (Computer Control)
This  type  of  connection  is  connected  to  the  vehicle  ECU  which  allows  variation  of  the  voltage  set
-
point  (known  commonly  as ‘smart charge system’) Some alternators can be tested standalone others require special equipment to fully test the alternator.

RC and SIG connections are used on Ford, Volvo and Land Rover. The RLO connection is used on Toyotas.
DFM/M: (Digital Field Monitor/Monitor)
This  type  of  connection  is  connect ed  to  the  vehicle  ECU.  Every  alternator  brand  has  a  different  abbreviation  for  the  DFM connection:  FR(Field  Return)  DF(Digital  Field)  DFM(Digital  Field  Monitor)  M(Monitor)  LI(Load  Indicator)  but  all  function  in  the same way. The connection has a positive and negative measurement which works with a block pulse. When the alternator load increases the block pulse dependant on the application will become wider or smaller. The vehicle ECU then knows the load at any specific moment during the charging process.


COM: (Computer Controlled)
This type of connection is connected to the vehicle ECU using a data signal for communication. The ECU provides information about  the  required  VSP  and  the  alternator  will  respond  with  a  DFM  type  signal.  There  are  various  type  of  COM  connections
which are; • COM (Various applications), • BSS
-
1 and BSS
-
2(Mercedes, Audi, BMW, VW, Mini, Rolls Royce and Renault), • LIN
-
1(Ford/Volvo), • LIN
-
2 (9K6) (Ford/Volvo) • LIN
-
2  (19K2)  (Mercedes,  Chrysler,  Toyota,  Fiat,  Audi,  VW,  Porsche,  Citroen and Peugeot) • Infineon VDA (BMW 2012)
L/D+/IND/16/15/61/R/1: (Warning Light)

This type of connection is for the warning light circuit. This circuit must have a 12V supply on ignition which should go out when the alternator begins to charge.

S: (Battery Sense)
This type of connection is a battery sense. This connection has a direct feed from the battery. If this connection is not there, it will create a charging faul

http://www.autoelectro.co.uk/sites/default/files/media/docs/AERegulatorGuide.pdf



https://goo.gl/6EvPE9

No se si te sirva.

Muchas gracias Singer...

Por lo que entiendo, del conector del alternador ("L" y "DF"), habría que entender esto:

"L" (si no me equivoco), es para la luz del cuadro, indicar que hay baja tensión...

"DF", sería para alternadores  Bosch, con ventilación interna..., y es una salida entre 0 y 11 v, para informar a la ECU de la condiciñon de carga...

Pero si no estoy confundido, ninguno de esos dos conectores son los que "van" a la batería...

¿Alguna idea amigos?

Gracias por adelantado 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Many thanks Singer ...

From what I understand, from the alternator connector ("L" and "DF"), this should be understood:

"L" (if I am not mistaken), it is for the light of the instrument panel, indicate that there is low voltage ...

"DF", would be for Bosch alternators, with internal ventilation ..., and is an output between 0 and 11 v, to inform the ECU of the load condition ...

But if I'm not confused, neither of those two connectors are the ones that "go" to the battery ...

Any ideas, friends?

Thanks in advance 

[kaliope]

One cable, the thick one, always go to the battery, sometimes not directly. On 1.9 cdti, the cable goes first to the motor starter and then to the battery (+) terminal

[MULTIPLERO]

One cable, the thick one, always go to the battery, sometimes not directly. On 1.9 cdti, the cable goes first to the motor starter and then to the battery (+) terminal

Hola a todos:
Ummm..., desmontaré rejilla y algo más para mirar..., a ver si puedo verlo claro.
Muchas gracias 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello everyone:
Ummm ... I'll take apart the grid and something else to look at ... to see if I can see it clearly.
Thank you very much 

[franbmx]

¿Merece la pena? , tambien he visto otros que solo ponen un negativo de bateria al motor , yo esque ultimamente al girar el volante y demas tengo vastante caida de iluminacion no se si tiene algo que ver , me tiene mosca estos dias  , haber si se podria medio solucionar algo de alguna forma...

 .

[MULTIPLERO]

Hola a todos:

Yo primero puse el cable de masa..., y sí que lo noté, pero se quedaba escaso.

Así que quitando la rejilla para ayudarme, conecté un cable al mismo borne del alternador (con ayuda de las indicaciones de kaliope), y lo llevé al + de la batería.

Eso sí, el cable metido en un corrugado, y éste a su vez aislado con cinta de tela de 3M. En ambos extremos, el terminal protegido por funda termofusible.

Y sí, ahora tengo voltajes de 14,2xx, incluso he llegado a ver 14,3xxx

Un saludo 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello everyone:

I first put the ground wire ... and I did notice it, but it was scarce.

So by removing the grid to help me, I connected a wire to the same terminal of the alternator (with the help of kaliope), and took it to the + of the battery.

That yes, the cable tucked into a corrugated, and this in turn isolated with 3M fabric tape. At both ends, the terminal protected by thermofusible sheath.

And yes, now I have voltages of 14.2xx, I even got to see 14.3xxx

A greeting